Friday 11 September 2015

Cheeseman Beach

Cheeseman Beach is NOT an official nude beach.  However it is used as such by at least a few local naturists willing to make the trek, and because of the trek it is really quite secluded.   Degree of difficulty getting there: Difficult to ARDUOUS, depending on which way you go.

Amenities: Nature, solitude, a fine sand beach and enough space for a comfortable camp above the tide line.  Other than that, nothing.  Anything that you’re going to need must be brought with you.  Anything that you brought with you must be taken back with you.


Wildlife:  On land:  moose, black bear, coyote, raccoons and smaller critters.  In the air: mostly sea birds.  In the water: usually harbour seals, sometimes porpoises and, rarely, pilot whales.

The beach is sandy and largish.  At high tide the water is muddy and very cold.  At low tide the tidal mud flats stretch out a long way and in some places can be somewhat treacherous. Best advice – stay on the beach.  When the tide comes in it comes in fast and often brings fog with it. 
At low tide Frenchmans Creek becomes a small brook and is great for stream walking.

Satellite photo adapted from Google Earth
How to get there . . . 
 
Cheeseman is located on Canadian Nature Conservancy (1) land on the eastern shore of the Musquash (2) Estuary a few kms west of Saint John.  There are several ways to get there, this is the most direct:


– take NB Hwy 1 WEST from Saint John to Exit 112, turn LEFT and follow King William Road to the vicinity of NB Power’s Coleson Cove generating station.  When I say that you can’t miss the station I am not kidding;


– just BEFORE the generating station turn RIGHT onto Burchill Road.  This road is not signed and is to all intents and purposes abandoned.  Drive slowly and slalom through the potholes keeping a careful eye out for oncoming vehicles or moose, one is as likely as the other;


– follow Burchill Road for 2.6 kms to a turn-off on the left where you can park one vehicle only, or go over the hill a bit and there is a crushed rock quarry on the left where you can park hundreds of cars if need be.  Park and walk from either point.  The track into the bush was once Cheeseman Beach Road but was allowed to grow in with alders on both sides; it has been hogged out within the last few years and is once again wide enough for a single vehicle all the way down the hill to the aqueduct right-of-way.  The road shows signs of a few vehicles having passed over it and it is also used by four-wheelers (indeed, what road isn't?) but you’re in the middle of nowhere so you can go naked from this point onward;


– follow Cheeseman Beach “Road” downhill for 800 metres where you come to an open space where the “Aqueduct Trail” forms something of a crossroads.  The continuation of the Cheeseman Beach Road is straight across but, as of August 2019, is grown in with alders on both sides.  Continue onward for maybe 300 metres to where the bridge/culverts used to cross Frenchman’s Creek. (3)  The bridge has been history for a long time and that is why you have to check the tide table before you head off on this trek.  You should only try to ford the creek a few hours either side of low tide; plan your trip accordingly; and 


– once you’ve crossed Frenchmans Creek,
Cheeseman Beach is about 700 metres ahead. Follow the rather more faint trail uphill and beneath the first set of electric power lines.  You then pass through a linear stand of forest where the trail forks.  Take the LEFT fork and after passing beneath the second set of power lines, continue on to Cheeseman Beach.  This may require a degree bushwhacking unless some kind soul has been there before you and cleared the way.  


The other way to walk to Cheeseman is rather more difficult.  Note the red and yellow triangle on the satellite photo above.  This is the trailhead if you need to get out when the tide is too high to ford Frenchmans Creek, you get there by following the RIGHT hand fork of the trail back in forest between the sets of power lines.  The trail itself is the CNC Five Fathom Hole Trail leading from a parking lot near Prince of Wales to the red and yellow triangle.  It is not an easy trail except the first bit of it near the parking lot.  Its total length is about 4.5 kms of rather rough going, not to be attempted in the dark under any circumstances.




The third and easiest way to get to Cheeseman is via sea kayak from Black Beach.  Access to this launch point is via King William Road to the generating station, then follow the signs for Black Beach.  Go while the tide is still running in so you can paddle right up to the beach, otherwise you have to contend with the tidal flats.

(1) For more about the CNC Musquash Estuary property
(2) Muquash is an Algonkian word meaning “muskrat”
(3) Frenchmans Creek was named for the French privateer (pirate) Capt Baptiste who sojourned here with his corvette (pirate ship) La Bonne over the winter of 1694-95, after it was chased inshore by an English cruiser (pirate).  According to local lore, the crew deserted and the corvette fell to ruin and sank.

                           

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